Evening journey on Cabo's Ruta del Desierto: A traveler's snapshot
At 7:30 p.m. on October 21, a writer boards one of the distinctive purple and yellow Ruta del Desierto buses in Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, heading toward the Autónoma stop. Budget constraints mean staying farther from the city center, making the affordable public bus—which costs just 37 pesos (about $2 USD) between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas—the practical choice.
The evening ride features an unexpected companion: a woman in an orange blouse performing cumbia, banda and boleros through her personal microphone and boombox, complete with pre-recorded backing tracks. Street performers on Mexican public transportation represent a widespread cultural tradition, with musicians often working alone or in groups, some performing while others collect tips from passengers.
Her repertoire includes "La Llorona," a traditional Mexican folk song that draws on the figure of La Llorona—a tragic ghost from Mexican folklore who mourns her lost children—to express deep emotional sorrow, loss and longing. The song is perhaps best known through Chavela Vargas's haunting 1961 recording, which became one of her signature pieces and was recognized in a 2024 ranking as part of the 26th greatest Latin American album of all time among 600 entries.
The writer makes a conscious effort to avoid eye contact, knowing that acknowledgment will create an obligation to tip. The performance continues as the bus makes its way through the evening, part of the Ruta del Desierto network that connects the airport with San José del Cabo, the Tourist Corridor and Cabo San Lucas. These buses operate daily from 4:30 a.m. to approximately 11:00 p.m., with departures every 8 to 10 minutes during peak times, providing budget travelers with reliable access across the region.
Beyond Cabo: Snapshots from across Mexico
The writer's observations extend beyond the Baja California Peninsula. Another postcard captures the atmosphere along Paseo de Montejo in Mérida, the grand boulevard named after Francisco de Montejo, the Spanish conquistador who founded the city in 1542.
Built between 1888 and 1904 and inspired by French boulevards, the avenue was constructed during a period of extraordinary economic prosperity brought by the henequen industry boom in Yucatán. Wealthy Yucatecans lined the street with grand mansions in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, creating an architectural showcase that remains one of the city's most distinctive features.
The collection also includes a guide to traditional mercados in Mexico City, offering readers a look at summer market exploration in the capital.
